The default settings are that both the potentiometers are turned all the way against the clock. Do not use force when you do this or the potentiometer may break.

You can find more details in the instructions for setting up the Radsense device.

Most likely, the device is working fine but there are several ways to check this.

Start by checking the USB power supply by connecting it to a phone or something small (not a PC) that is also using USB Type C. If the device isn’t charging, there might be a problem with either the power supply or the USB cable. Try using a different USB cable to test this.

Now lets test the device itself. Plug it into a powersupply with USB Type C that you know is working well. Reset the zone settings by turning the potentiometer above Output 1 carefully against the clock until it stops. The LED indicator for this relay should now light up (if you are in front of the device). If the LED turns on, it’s likely that someone has put the device into “No LED mode”. Use the Mode button to change the LED mode.

If this still does not work and you have a Windows computer with audio speakers/headset, try connecting the device to the computer. You should then get the familiar TaDa-sound that happens every time you connect a USB device to the machine.

If this all fails, contact us using the form below.

Technically, the device should work with no issues between -40 to 70°C (-40 to 158F) provided that it’s kept free of condensation. -20 to 70°C is more realistic.

If you see a red blink that never stops when you power the device, this means that the radar has been destroyed. All devices come pre-tested, so it should never happen to a new device. It can happen if the device falls to the floor or something similar. Please contact us for support options if this happens.